http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/index.php Wed, 16 May 2012 23:44:52 +0100 Phorum 5.2.7 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8091,8091#msg-8091 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8091,8091#msg-8091



[REST OF POSTING EDITED BY WhyCycle Admin]

Sorry Doug. I've removed the rest of your post.
I'm sure you've been told that for marketing purposes, you should "get involved" in forums and weave your advert into an otherwise "helpful" post. Weel, to a certain degree that's true, but to earn the right to do so involves responding in a useful way to people who have questions and including your *very low key* mention of your services within that reply. If you reply to unrelated questions just to squeeze your adverts in I'll censor them but if you answer on-topic questions where your services may be of benefit then I likely wouldn't censor you.
What is a big no-go on this forum though is outright adverts, ie you start threads solely for the purposes of placing your advertising. Poor form and certainly NOT tolerated on WhyCycle.]]> California_ebike The WhyCycle Forum Wed, 16 May 2012 14:48:24 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8090#msg-8090 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8090#msg-8090
I'll take a look at the ridgeback range. Thanks again for the advice.]]> bluelad7 The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 13 May 2012 19:41:46 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8089#msg-8089 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8089#msg-8089
The dual track has disc brakes but neither have suspension forks. Personally I agree with Ridgeback in that suspension forks are not needed on bikes designed for riding quickly with limited cross country off roading.]]> DocB The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 13 May 2012 18:50:31 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8088#msg-8088 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8088#msg-8088 bluelad7 The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 13 May 2012 09:15:37 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8087#msg-8087 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8087#msg-8087
I will make a comment on your selection. It is absolutely typical of a lot of bikes from the big makers in that it is a right old mish mash of components. A bit of SRAM, a bit of Shimano of different specs, A bit of Hayes, odd hubs (one shimano, one not), probably a cheap bottom bracket. It is a very good example of a bike that has been specified to look good to the average bike buyer yet meet a price target. It is not a bad bike but it is nowhere near what it pretends to be.]]> DocB The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 13 May 2012 07:41:00 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8086#msg-8086 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8086#msg-8086 bluelad7 The WhyCycle Forum Sat, 12 May 2012 17:20:11 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8085#msg-8085 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8085#msg-8085
I think I'm looking for a road bike with straight bars (and profiles), with a front suspension. Basically, a bike that can take a few bumps off road, get through the mud in the winter etc whilst predominantly being faster than I can currently pedal on the road with my mtb.]]> bluelad7 The WhyCycle Forum Fri, 11 May 2012 21:08:32 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8084#msg-8084 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8084#msg-8084 If the former then have a look at the Merida S-Presso range which start at £499.99 and go up to £999.99, all have disc brakes. If its more off-road then their Crossway range might suit.
A bit more info would give us a better idea of what you need.]]> Cotterpin The WhyCycle Forum Fri, 11 May 2012 21:02:06 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8083#msg-8083 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8083,8083#msg-8083
Decided a little while back that I wanted to get a newer bike. I currently have a 21 sp hard tail mtb with gripshifters. Nothing special really.

A bit of background. I used to be a roadie in my 20's but now in my 40's and a little bit heavier (!) I've taken to "explorer" riding either on road or off it. However, whilst on the road I have the tendency to want to go for that "in my 20's speed" but find that I am just spinning the pedals without getting anywhere.

I am looking to get something that will be around the 10-12Kg weight, 21-27 gears (with a larger front crank I guess), disk brakes, slimmer tyres than my 2.175 (I think) and profile bars (but not dropped bars).

I guess most of you will say that this is a custom job but is there anything remotely out there that would help me? Even if someone says get an "ABC" and mod it using "XYZ" then I'm up for suggestions.

For info the off road demands aren't demanding in anyway or form. Far too concerned about breaking anymore bones nowadays!

Any advice will be much appreciated.]]> bluelad7 The WhyCycle Forum Fri, 11 May 2012 20:31:20 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8078,8080#msg-8080 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8078,8080#msg-8080
The first point to conider would be that the archetypal hybrid frame is not normally something that would be available off the peg in a frame only format since custom building of hybrids is a regular request. Most commonly custom builds are undertaken as Doc mentions, to create something which isn't available through mainstream channels, but also distinclty for more sport based cycling (road or mounatin bike racing)

What may be an option for you though would be to start with an off-the-peg bike and a good retailer, then customise the specifications of your bikes to better suit your needs. Pay particular atention to upgrading wheels and ensuring that those hidden compnents (Headset and bottom bracket) are of appropriate quality. Consider the weight you'll be expecting the bike to transport and buy appropriate quality racks and luggage. Thene invest in a set of on-the-trail essentials for running repairs. Unless you're going into the depths of Eastern Europe, you'll rarely be far away from a reasonable bike dealer, but consider your choices of equipment carefully. P{ointless, for example, getting expensive hydraulic disc brakes if there is unlikely to be a nearby dealer who could fix them up if they go wrong. Stick to standard kit like cantilever or v-brakes.]]> WhyCycle? Admin The WhyCycle Forum Tue, 08 May 2012 00:12:33 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8078,8079#msg-8079 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8078,8079#msg-8079 DocB The WhyCycle Forum Mon, 07 May 2012 18:02:33 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8078,8078#msg-8078 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8078,8078#msg-8078 Oliver The WhyCycle Forum Mon, 07 May 2012 12:58:21 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?4,8072,8072#msg-8072 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?4,8072,8072#msg-8072 Maternity Worldwide – Brighton to Paris Bike Ride - 22nd to 26th August 2012

All roads lead to the Eiffel Tower and the heart of Paris as we embark on this popular Brighton to Paris Challenge over three days cycling an average of 50 miles a day via cycle paths, canal paths and country roads.

Maternity Worldwide is the UK's leading charity saving lives in childbirth in developing countries.

For more information visit our website email Kirsty fundraising@maternityworldwide.org or call 01273 234033, don't forget to join us on Facebook and Twitter

Thank you!]]> Maternity Worldwide Cycling Events Fri, 04 May 2012 13:09:12 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?4,8071,8071#msg-8071 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?4,8071,8071#msg-8071 Maternity Worldwide – Coast to Coast – 3rd to 7th June 2012

This classic Great British ride covers some of northern England's most rugged & spectacular scenery. Join us on this fantastic ride from Whitehaven to Newcastle Upon Tyne with a choice each day of the 25 mile route or the 65 mile route. The ride is fully supported and lead by experienced riders who have organised many cycling events both here and overseas.

Maternity Worldwide is the UK's leading charity saving lives in childbirth in developing countries.

For more information visit our website email Kirsty fundraising@maternityworldwide.org or call 01273 234033, don't forget to join us on Facebook and Twitter

Thank you!]]> Maternity Worldwide Cycling Events Fri, 04 May 2012 13:06:43 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8070#msg-8070 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8070#msg-8070
You should view the gears on your bike not as (in the case of a 3x7 setup) 21 seperate gears. Yes, there are 21 (or 24, 27 or 30 or now even 33) gear combinations, but as Cotterpin said in his reply, there are almost excatly duplicated ratios across the 21 gear combinations meaning that there are significantly less than 21 different gear ratios on a "21 speed" bike.
You should, instead, consider them as three gear ranges; A low gear range with 5 different gears. A mid gear range with 6 or 7 different gears and finally, a high gear range with 5-6 different gears.

So, if you are in steep ascending landscape, you select your low gear range (smallest chainring)
If you are in steep or moderate descending landscape, you select your high gear range (biggest chainring)
For most other situtions, moderate ascending and descending, you select your mid gear range (and if on tarmac, you possibly alternate between mid and high ranges).

By having three gear ranges which overlap significantly, you will find that you can minimise the changes of front chainring selection, making your gear transitions smoother.

Racing bikes (ie the old drop handlebar "I knew I was right about that saddle" type bikes) rarely encounter such steep or diffuclt ascents that the lowest range offered on mountain bikes is required (where the terrain makes the effort required increase). In more recent times, an increasing number of those very same race bikes are now being fitted with triple chainrings. This serves two purposes; it allows the gear ratios within each of the three ranges to be tighter together giving more finite control AND it allows the makers to extend the number of sprockets fitted at the back. Pick any two of the ranges in the diagram and you'll see that at least one sprocket/chainring combination is inadvisable. With three, all sprockets and all chainrings become usable, though not every combination.


Murray... Feel free to pick whatever you wish and place in wikipedia (though you'll want to check for typos first ;-) )]]> WhyCycle? Admin The WhyCycle Forum Wed, 02 May 2012 22:52:11 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8069#msg-8069 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8069#msg-8069 Comments from the forum experts would be interesting.
Thanks]]> neilf The WhyCycle Forum Wed, 02 May 2012 21:14:45 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8068#msg-8068 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8068#msg-8068
That will help tak the worry away as I learn to shift when I go riding with the group next time (I'm going to print the diagram and take it with me!! (:D )

Much Thanks,

Marty]]> Marty Robinson The WhyCycle Forum Wed, 02 May 2012 19:32:29 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8067#msg-8067 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8067#msg-8067
Your diagram and the accompanying explanation is one of the clearest I have ever seen. Would you by any chance be willing to make the diagram and/or the text available on Wikipedia? The applicable copyright license is at:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Text_of_Creative_Commons_Attribution-ShareAlike_3.0_Unported_License
and has a half-page summary at the start.

- Murray]]> Murray R Langton The WhyCycle Forum Wed, 02 May 2012 16:37:04 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8066#msg-8066 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8066#msg-8066
You have two sets of cogs, connected by a chain.
The front set of cogs (typically 3 nowadays) is known as the chainset/chainrings.
The back set of cogs (anywhere from 7 to 11) is the freewheel or "sprockets".

The bicycle chain is pinned together to allow the links to move (so they can go round the sprockets and chainrings) and whilst there is a small amount of lateral movement allowed, the chain essentially wants to travel in a straight line.

Now consider that both the front chainrings and rear sprockets form straight lines but there are only a few combinations of those front and rear cogs that have a straight line joining them.

Unless things have changed dramatically in the past few years since I was last involved in sales, the front set of chainrings are offset slightly in favour of higher gears, ie the middlechainring does not form a direct staight line to the middle rear sprocket.

The "grinding" noises you are experiencing are the direct result of contact between the chain sides and one or other of: the inner faces of the front derailleur, the inner face of a larger chainring than the selected one or the chain riding over the jockey wheels in the rear derailleur (those two small platic toothed wheels in the rear gear machanism that take up the slack in the chain). Most likely are the first two.

The illustration I've added above hopefully demonstrates the lineups of the various gears (in a 3x7 system).



In the left hand illustration, the smallest chainring is selected. As you can see, it lines up very well with the third sprocket and pretty well with sprockets 2 and 4. Even 1 and 5 don't show too much deviation from a straight line, but once we start to look at sprockets 6 and 7, the deviation from straight is becoming quite extreme. Indeed, on 7th sprocket there is a fair chance that the chain will begin to drind on the middle chainring's inner face. Pretty much all shops/stores will tell you to avoid using the smallest chainring with the smallest sprocket simply because the off-line aspect is so great that it will cause premature wear of your chain.

In the middle illustration, the middle chainring is selected. As you can see, it lines up pretty well with all of the rear sprockets with the exception of the biggest (1) sprocket. The middle chainring to lagest sprocket is advisable not to be used though shouldn't cause excessive damage to the chain. The combination will, however, mean that the chain is almost definite to grind on the inner face of your front derailleur mechanism. It is also possible for the chain to grind on the inner face of the front derailleur in middle -> smallest. For this reason, many better quality front gear shifters used to have (I'm not sure if they still do) two settings for the front mech position, to alleviate this grinding. Back in the days before "indexed" gears, cyclists would regularly adjust the front derailleur position to alleviate any grinding, but with modern index systems, this isn't so easy.

In the right hand illustration, the largest chainring is selected. Again, you can see that this lines up pretty well with the smallest four sprockets, however the biggest three get progressively more out of line... infact moreso than the combinations on the smallest chainring... because the chainset so offset to favour higher gears. On the biggest chainring, it is never wise to use the two biggest rear sprockets and I also mention that the thrid biggest will, as above, also leave the chain grinding on the inner face of the front derailleur.

In short;
on the smallest chainring, do not use the smallest 2 sprockets.
on the middle chainring, you can use all rear sprockest but I'd advise avoiding the very biggest
on the biggest chainring, do not use the biggest 2 sprockets and I'd advise not using the third biggest aswell, but this depends upon your specific gear setup.

Using these poor combinations leads to excessive and premature wear of your chain, chainrings and sprockets AND means you are almost certain to experience the grinding noises you are hearing.

As Cotterpin has already mentioned, the "no-go" gears are duplicated elsewehere anyway...
counting sprockets left to right (biggest to smallest)...
smallest + 7th =approx= middle + 5th
smallest + 6th =approx= middle + 4th
biggest + 1st =approx= middle + 4th
biggest + 2nd =approx= middle + 5th]]> WhyCycle? Admin The WhyCycle Forum Tue, 01 May 2012 23:05:41 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8065#msg-8065 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8065#msg-8065
What bike is it and where did you get it from? There is a possibility that the gear changing mechanisms have not been set up particularly well and if this is the case then all sorts of loud grinding noises can be generated.]]> DocB The WhyCycle Forum Tue, 01 May 2012 22:43:59 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8064#msg-8064 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8064#msg-8064
Thanks for the reply. Yes I got what he and others were saying about poor choice of gear combinations but what about the grinding?

I mean, if I bought one of the better bikes that I hear people talking aobut, would the chain also grind when temporarily in certian combinations?

Thanks,]]> Marty Robinson The WhyCycle Forum Tue, 01 May 2012 21:04:09 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8063#msg-8063 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8063#msg-8063 COTTERPIN The WhyCycle Forum Tue, 01 May 2012 18:08:28 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8062#msg-8062 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,8062,8062#msg-8062
Am I wrong about this?? Is it normal for the chain to grind against another part when I use a certian combination??]]> Marty Robinson The WhyCycle Forum Tue, 01 May 2012 17:29:06 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7988,8061#msg-8061 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7988,8061#msg-8061 cotterpin The WhyCycle Forum Mon, 30 Apr 2012 13:28:04 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7988,8060#msg-8060 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7988,8060#msg-8060
I see a lot of bikes and you know, I really do not agree with you.]]> DocB The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 29 Apr 2012 13:34:57 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8059#msg-8059 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8059#msg-8059
So, sorry neilf, but don't worry about it. Freehubs don't fail very often and if you are unlucky then a new wheel is not the end of the world.]]> DocB The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 29 Apr 2012 13:32:26 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7988,8058#msg-8058 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7988,8058#msg-8058 I personally have owned the Vantage for about 2 months and have put over a thousand miles on it in that time. It goes for £600 retail but I got mine for a little over £400 at Evans using their price match deal.
It uses machine built wheels which despite having been bashed to hell on roads and mountain bike type terrain are still holding true. The components are also doing perfectly fine despite their "budget" price tag.
You don't need a £1000 or over bike for anything and that includes world tours. Plenty of folk who have done these world tours will tell you the same. So anyone telling you that you need to spend thousands is basically, full of it.

Bill]]> IrishBill The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 29 Apr 2012 06:45:10 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8057#msg-8057 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8057#msg-8057 neilf The WhyCycle Forum Sun, 29 Apr 2012 06:14:15 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8056#msg-8056 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8056#msg-8056
If you want a naughty question for the dealer you might ask him what he would do if the freehub on the rear wheel failed! I note it has formula hubs and as far as I know you cannot get replacement free hub bodies for those hubs and so the honest answer to the question is that you would need a new wheel.

Good luck.]]> DocB The WhyCycle Forum Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:00:38 +0100 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8055#msg-8055 http://www.whycycle.co.uk/whycycle_forum/read.php?1,7981,8055#msg-8055 The local dealer eventually got the bike in and called me to arrange a test ride. All looking a bit better now. So I went over to their shop, they got the bike out (Specialized Crosstrail which had a lock-out front suspension) and guess what? The lock-out on the front suspension was knackered. This is supposedly a brand new bike!!!
Again - not impressed. They said they would get it fixed and call me back. Weeks later, still nothing, so I went off looking for a better dealer.
Have now decided to get a Giant Roam 2 from another local dealer. It's in stock (ie. in their shop) and I should pick it up in a few days - that's if it stops raining due to the official drought which has been declared.
Feel much better about this dealer, hope he doesn't let me down.]]> neilf The WhyCycle Forum Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:22:30 +0100